By I Made Surya, born and raised in Klungkung, now calling Nusa Penida home for the last 12 years

Look, I’m not going to sugar-coat it. Ten years ago you could have the whole of Kelingking Beach to yourself if you showed up at 9 a.m. Those days are gone. But the island is still jaw-dropping, and honestly, I love it more now than I did back then—because the people who come today usually care a little more.

Here’s what you actually need to know if you’re thinking about coming in 2025.

The Truth About the Crowds

Yes, it gets busy. Between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. the west coast (Kelingking, Broken Beach, Angel’s Billabong) feels like a Bali traffic jam on scooters. The glass elevator thing everyone was talking about? Dead in the water—canceled for good, which I’m secretly relieved about. They did put proper concrete steps and railings on the worst parts of Kelingking and Diamond Beach, so it’s no longer a death march, just a solid workout.

The fix is simple: start early or stay late. I still take my groups to Kelingking for sunrise and we usually have the place to ourselves for a solid 30–40 minutes. Magic.

Who Should Come (and Who Should Stay on the Mainland)

Come if:

  • You’re fine with bumpy roads and don’t mind getting a little dusty
  • You’d rather see a manta ray than another infinity pool
  • You actually want to talk to locals instead of just taking photos of them
  • You’re cool waking up at 5 a.m. once or twice for the good light

Skip it if:

  • You need air-con 24/7 and perfect Wi-Fi
  • Stairs are your enemy
  • Your idea of “roughing it” is a 4-star hotel instead of 5

Day Trip vs. Overnight – My Honest Take

Day trips are still possible, but they’re exhausting and you only see the Instagram greatest hits. You’ll spend more time in the boat and on the road than actually enjoying the island.

If you can, stay at least two nights. The east coast (Atuh Beach, Diamond Beach, the treehouse at Rumah Pohon) is almost empty compared to the west, and the sunrises there are ridiculous. Plus your money actually reaches the families who run the little warungs and homestays instead of just the fast-boat companies.

How I Run Trips These Days (Because Things Had to Change)

I got tired of the conga-line tours, so we switched everything:

  • Max 6 people per group (often private)
  • All my guides are Penida or Lembongan boys—most of them cousins or childhood friends
  • We finish the day with a quick beach clean-up or drop off some old fins to the kids’ snorkel program. Takes 15 minutes, means the world to them
  • We eat where the drivers eat, sleep in small family bungalows, use local boats

It costs a little more than the mass tours, but you’re not stuck in a 40-person convoy and you go home with stories instead of just photos.

Realistic Itineraries That Actually Work

The “I Only Have One Day” Survival Plan 5:00 a.m. boat from Sanur → sunrise at Kelingking → Broken Beach/Angel’s Billabong → snorkel Crystal Bay or Manta Point → back by 3–4 p.m. It’s rushed, but doable if you’re fit and start early.

The Sweet Spot: 2 Nights / 3 Days (what 90% of my guests do now) Day 1 – West: sunrise Kelingking, Broken Beach, chill at Crystal Bay Day 2 – East: Diamond Beach, Atuh, Rumah Pohon treehouse, sunset from the cliffs Day 3 – Morning snorkel with mantas (Sept–Nov best) or just coffee on the beach before the boat home

The Slow Version: 4+ Nights Add a coastal trek from Atuh to the lighthouse, cooking class with a local family, half-day helping the reef restoration guys plant coral fragments. You’ll leave feeling like you actually know the island instead of just checking boxes.

Final Thought

Nusa Penida isn’t “undiscovered” anymore, and that’s okay. What it is now is a place that asks something of you: a little effort, a little respect, maybe skipping the 47th photo at Kelingking to pick up some plastic instead.

Do it right—stay a couple nights, wake up early, eat the mie goreng at Warung Makan Bu Murti—and I promise this island will still blow your mind.

If you want to do it the way that feels good for both you and the island, send me a message. I’ll tell you straight if it’s the right trip for you or not.

See you on the cliffs (hopefully at sunrise).